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Surfer's Guide to Waves, Coasts and Climates
Author: Tony Butt

ISBN: 9780906720585
Format: Paperback
Number Of Pages: 176
Published: 9 September 2009
Country of Publication: GB
Dimensions (cm): 24.6 x 18.9 x 1.9
The Surfer's Guide to Waves, Coasts and Climates will
appeal to surfers and all those who are fascinated by the
sea and the coast. The perfect wave is every surfer's
dream. But where does that wave come from, and what makes
it perfect? It doesn't just appear on the coast, but may
be the result of a storm thousands of kilometres away,
which depends on the air flow in the upper atmosphere;
this, in turn, may rely on long-term atmospheric patterns
that affect the entire globe. When a swell arrives at the
coast, it already has its own unique character. But
whether the waves are going to be rights, lefts, short,
long, fast, hollow, or even rideable at all, depends on
the characteristics of the coast. And the coast itself is
the result of a unique set of processes, linked to the
rest of the planet and going back into the depths of
time. The Surfer's Guide to Waves, Coasts and Climates
covers everything from coastal geology, climatic cycles
and big waves, to coastal erosion, tsunamis and the
effects ...

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